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Makeup Tutorial: Cooking on your contour and combatting fine under eye lines

The savvy makeup artist trick in this post has been around for quite some time, but is not massively recognised. We’ve all been there where our under eye concealer has either slipped off throughout the day or settled into any fine lines that we might have, and we all know how infuriating that can be, right? From fine lines to enlarged pores, there’s always something threatening to run our desired flawless finish. Using today’s tip can help to keep your concealer in place all day and can also sharpen up your contouring for that magazine cover finish along with giving a gorgeous, smooth finish to your skin that will last longer.

‘Cooking’ on the makeup has been a technique used by drag artists for years and years and is an amazing little trick to really sharpen up your lines and get a strong finish. I find inspiration from a lot of drag artists who are the absolute queens of contouring – they have an abundance of lessons for us to learn from their experience of becoming experts in reshaping their faces ready for their transformations.

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For this tutorial, you’ll need: Your regular foundation, a lighter cream/liquid concealer, a darker cream/liquid contour colour (use a darker foundation or even a cream eyeshadow), a loose setting powder in a light colour (must be loose, finely milled powder, a pressed powder will not work) and your regular bronzing powder if required. For my own face, I used the following:

– MAC Studio Fix Foundation in NC15

– Make Up For Ever foundation in Ivory (for the highlight) and Mat Beige (for the contour)

– Sleek Face Form Contour Palette in Light

-Estée Lauder Double Wear Mineral Rich Loose Powder in 1.0 Intensity

Here’s what you need to do, step by step:

Step 1
Apply your regular foundation and add your lighter concealer in the areas you’d like to highlight. I put Make Up For Ever foundation in Ivory under my eye area in a triangle shape, down the bride of my nose, over my cupid’s bow, and on the centre of my forehead and chin. As soon as you’ve applied the concealer, blend it in gently with a damp beauty blender. I used my Real Techniques Miracle Complexion sponge but and damp sponge applicator will work.

Step 2 
Add your contour colour and blend in gently with your damp beauty blender as before.

Step 3
Apply your concealer colour again (if needed – I wanted to add to the hightlight) over the top and underneath your contouring and pat in gently. I also added a tiny bit more under my eyes.

 

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Step 4
Take your loose powder and pat it onto the areas you’ve added concealer where you’d like to seal and highlight your makeup. If you have darker skin than me, Banana Powder will work beautifully here. It’s a little too yellow for my skin tone which is why I opt for a more Ivory finish.

This is where we get the really sharp line of the contour so make sure you keep the edges as neat as possible. You need to pat a very generous amount of powder onto the area so it’s layered on pretty thickly. Chill out with your Santa beard for a few minutes while you allow the powder to do its thing and settle into the skin. I don’t recommend leaving the house at this stage. Not even to greet the postman.

Step 5 
Take a soft brush and very gently take off the layers of powder in long stroking motions.

Step 6
Ta-da! Your cooking is complete! Smooth over as needed or add your regular bronzing/contouring powder to add more depth as required.

The great thing about using this method is that the makeup can look as lovely and natural as you like, or as heavy and glamorous as you like. I prefer my contour to be more blended and softer for the day time so I gently diffused mine with some extra powder.

© This post is copyright of Rachael Divers 2015.

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RuPaul’s Drag Race inspired makeup

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I’m quite literally seven seasons late to the party, but I’ve recently found a pretty big love for RuPaul’s Drag Race! I love drag makeup and artists like Miss Fame just take things to a whole new level, so it’s shocking that I haven’t really ever watched the programme despite the hype. Anyway, after discovering my brand new love, I decided that today would be the day that I wore a drag-inspired makeup look.

I created this look using my MAC shadows in Wedge, Mystery and Mythology along with Illamasqua’s Gel liner. These images are of course filtered to show off the makeup to its best. I hope that you like the look!

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And to finish with – an edited version!

  

© This post is copyright of Rachael Divers 2015.

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Review: Spectrum Brushes 7 Pieces of Heaven Limited Edition set

IMG_3726Back in February, I received a gorgeous set of makeup brushes from my boyfriend as a birthday gift. I promised that I’d write a review on them in the coming weeks and so, here it is!

I’m really lucky to have a boyfriend who has always encouraged my makeup artistry and always showed interest in my work, so I was thrilled to receive this beautiful set that I’d been lusting after over on Instagram for weeks.

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The set I received was the ‘7 Pieces of Heaven’ limited edition set which came in a sleek black faux leather case – excellent for both travel and displaying your brushes on your vanity. The brushes have black handles with a purple gloss ferrule and mixture of ombre purple to black hairs. The set contains the following brushes:

– Angled Foundation

– Powder/Bronzer

– Angled Blush/Contour

– Concealer

– Angled Shader

– Angled Brow/Liner

– Lip

The Angled Foundation brush

This brush is a cross between a buffing brush and a stippling brush but I find it to be too hard to be a buffing brush and too coarse and prickly to be a stippling brush. It’s like no other foundation brush that I’ve ever come across and no matter how I use it, I can’t seem to get along with it. You can try to stipple the foundation on with it, but of course it doesn’t have the stipple brush structure that you need to blend and buff the foundation in. I’ve found that if I use this as a buffing brush for my foundation, it removes my foundation as I go as the bristles are so dense and hard.

Powder/Bronzer brush

This is a fabulous little brush for powder and bronzer and also great for highlighting. I like to use this brush on any areas I’d like to add a little luminosity to such as my cheekbones. It’s slim enough to use for highlighting but also wide enough to distribute a healthy dose of bronzer across the face naturally.

Angled Blush/Contour brush

Another great brush for blush and contour. I use this brush solely for contouring and find it to be a great shape and cut to get right under the cheekbone without looking too harsh. The soft bristles help to diffuse the colour in a more natural way so that you can build up the contour naturally and to your liking. A firm favourite in my collection.

Concealer brush

The concealer brush is great for concealing or adding contour creams to the nose and cheekbones. I love to use it both for concealing and also for cream eyeshadows. The synthetic bristles are fabulous for cream based products as they don’t tend to absorb as much product as a real hair brush would and will also wash and wear much better with this kind of makeup application.

Angled Shader brush 

The angled shader brush is my new favourite brush for concealing under my eyes. The angled shape makes it easy to follow the eye contour and get right into the corners without actually poking yourself in the eye.

Angled Brow/Liner brush

Although I don’t use this brush for my brows, I really enjoy using it to add a small amount of powder product under my lower lash line to line my eyes and also to diffuse gel or pencil liners on the upper lash line.

Lip brush

I usually use most of my lipsticks right from the bullet, but when I do need a lip brush, this one is fab. The bristles are strong yet pliable and allow you to get that precise, sharp line that you need for cover-girl lips. I also love using this brush for adding a small dab of highlight on the inner corners of my eyes.

Here are the two makeup looks I created with the brush set – one night out and one natural. Please excuse the bad lighting, our hotel wasn’t too great for finding a good spot with good lighting to show the makeup off very well!

Spectrum collection makeup

Overall, I really enjoy the Spectrum collection brushes for my own personal use, and I love seeing them on my dressing table as they’re just so pretty! A really fun, cute set that are enjoyable to use and lovely as a gift for any makeup lover. The set retails for £24.99 and was available from Spectrum Collections here – however, the set is currently out of stock.

© This post is copyright of Rachael Divers 2015.

 

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MAC Cinderella collection – Stroke of Midnight eyeshadow palette and Royal Ball lipstick overview

MAC release some amazing collections all of the time but usually I don’t succumb to them. This time however, was very different. One of my all time favourite Disney films is Cinderella and I used to constantly watch it as a child. My poor parents couldn’t even escape the happy soundtrack to the movie in the car as we just had to listen to the cassette on every car journey with bibbidi-bobbidi-boo on repeat. Even my Grandad used to sit with me and pretend to dress me up for the ball, lovingly applying pretend blusher, lipstick and eyeshadow before I’d race off to the kitchen and play dizzy dolls until he pretended to be the clock striking midnight and I’d run back in just in time before my ball gown turned to rags.

Cinderella has always held a special place in my heart and with that in mind, I knew I had to bring home a little something from this beautiful collection. This morning, I made my way to Meadowhall to the MAC Debenhams counter to queue along with all the other Cinderella/MAC loving guys and girls and stood hopefully waiting and wishing that I wasn’t too late to secure myself a special something. The counter was packed with so many people excited to lay eyes on the new collection and take home some makeup eye candy for themselves or as gifts, and the MAC girls were in full professional mode handling the abundance of people wonderfully.

MAC Cinderella

As a makeup artist, I’m always looking for gorgeous products for my clients that will suit a wide range of skin tones and I knew I wouldn’t go wrong with a MAC palette. With this in mind, I chose to pick up the beautiful Stroke of Midnight palette which is full of flattering eyeshadow shades to suit any skin tone and eye colour. The palette contains five usual MAC offerings of Vapour (velvet peach/pink with violet pearl), Phloof! (frosted off white), Omega (matte soft muted beige taupe), Quarry (soft muted plum brown with a matte finish) and Satin Taupe (frost taupe with silver shimmer) with the addition of the exquisite exclusive, Stroke of Midnight – a velvet black plum finish with added sparkle pearl.

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I was going to halt myself at buying just the palette, but when I arrived in store this morning and saw just how appealing the Royal Ball lipstick was, I made the snap decision to also pick up one of those. The description of ‘fleshy pink’ doesn’t really give much justice to this lipstick, I’d describe it as more of a mellow crystal pink – much nicer, don’t you think? The shimmering finish is absolutely fit for a princess and gives a nice wash of colour without being too overbearing or stark.

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A point I’d like to touch on is the packaging for this collection. Soft powder blue and regal gold really give the collection that royal feel and I love the pearlescent finish on the lipstick tube particularly. I’ve heard a lot of people commenting that they think the packaging looks a little cheap, but for me, it’s bang on.

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I’ll be uploading a makeup look with these stunning new additions to my makeup kit later on. In the meantime, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the collection.

© This post is copyright of Rachael Divers 2015.

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